CERAMIDES ARE IMPORTANT BECAUSE:
- Ceramides make up to 50% of the lipids in our skin’s top layer.
- Ceramides increase the skin hydration and its plumpness
- Ceramides reinforce the skin’s barrier and therefore
- Reduce the sensitivity to external aggressions and chemicals
- Ceramides repair the effect of dryness: reduce scaling, redness, itchiness
- Ceramides smooth the skin surface, improve fine lines and wrinkles
So with all these benefits for the health and appearance of our skin, it is surprising that they are remained the in the shadows. That is until recently. BECAUSE THEY ARE QUICKLY BECOMING THE NEW FAVOURITE OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY.
WHY HAVEN’T WE HEARD MORE ABOUT CERAMIDES?
One of the reasons is that whilst ceramides have been around for a long time (Elisabeth Arden was one of the most famous 80’s brand to launch a hero product “Advance Ceramide Capsule” back then), the research into understanding the chemistry of this class lipids as well as their crucial importance in the physiology of our skin has only recently accelerated.
WHAT ARE CERAMIDES?
Ceramides make up to 50% of the lipids of the stratum corneum (the top and most protective layer of our skin), and are a waxy material which glues our skin cells together, providing a breathable barrier, yet impenetrable to germs and water, and in doing so responsible for the smooth, soft appearance of our skin.
There are well over 300 types of ceramides(1) grouped in various classes depending on their molecular composition, and their names have changed over the years as our understanding of their chemistry has changed.
Ceramide 1 = Ceramide EOP
Ceramide 2 = Ceramide NG
Ceramide 3 = Ceramide NP (the most abundant and makes up 22% of the total pool of ceramides. (1) )
Ceramide 5 = Ceramide AS
Ceramide 6II = Ceramide AP
WHY ARE CERAMIDES SO IMPORTANT FOR OUR SKIN?
Besides the fact that they make up so much of its composition, reduced levels of Ceramides NP, AP and EOP in particular are associated with major skin problems such as eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and therefore considered the most essential ceramides for a healthy skin barrier.
Water is the fluid of life, and this is the utmost element for a functioning body: water enables the fluid circulation of nutrients and minerals with our cells, it also allows skin cells enzymes to operate and synthetise the essential molecules to build and repair our skin. A healthy, hydrated skin is a skin that holds its water well thanks to a strong the skin barrier. And the skin barrier relies heavily on how much lipids, especially ceramides, it has at its disposal to form a continuous, breathable but impenetrable barrier.
Ceramides are also heavily involved in the self-repair mechanism of the skin as it is exposed to daily environmental aggression which cause repeated stress, leads to inflammation, and compromises the integrity of the barrier. A typical skin barrier incident can involve irritation caused by a sunburn or a harsh skin cleanser, stripping away vital skin oils.
As soon as our skin surface is compromised, a cascade of events is triggered and the first skin response is the immediate release of precursor lipids from deeper skin cells, rapidly converted into ceramides to rebuild the impermeable protection layer of the stratum corneum.
Ceramides are the first, most important lipids to fix our skin problems.
SO IT SEEMS OBVIOUS, CERAMIDES MUST BE A PILAR IN OUR SKIN CARE ROUTINE.
Many clinical studies have proven the effectiveness of a daily regimen of a ceramide-containing skin care in children and adults with skin problems. The results demonstrated that the ceramide containing formulations substantially improved clinical outcomes, reduced the severity of the symptoms and improve the quality of life of the patients (2)(3)(4)
It seems logical then to include ceramides in our skin care routine and to ensure the optimal condition and health of our skin.
Ceramides are suitable for every skin type and will beautify any skin of any age, but especially dry or older skins groups. As we get older, our skin struggles to synthetise enough ceramides and has lost about 40 to 45% by the time we reach 50 years old. Ceramides in moisturisers provide an immediate supply to the upper layers of our skin and rapid results will be seen in improved elasticity, visual appeal, and glow.
This is why Ceramides are rapidly becoming the new “IT” ingredient.
Sources:
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2017, 39, 366–372
- Lynde CW, Andriessen A. A cohort study on a ceramide containing cleanser and moisturizer used for atopic dermatitis. Cutis. 2014;93(4):207–213
- Chamlin SL, Kao J, Frieden IJ, et al. Ceramide-dominant barrier repair lipids alleviate childhood atopic dermatitis: changes in barrier function provide a sensitive indicator of disease activity. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2002;47:198–208.
- Sugarman JL, Parish LC. Efficacy of a lipid-based barrier repair formulation in moderate-to-severe pediatric atopic dermatitis. J Drugs Dermatol. 2009;8(12):1106–1111
